THE TIMEHOUSE GUIDE TO THE PERFECT SUIT
Naturally, the suit is not a new invention. In terms of form, it is probably older than the majority of all fashion trends. We can assume that all men own a suit, and that this elegant combination of jacket and trousers is available in just about every clothing store. Despite this, two major problems remain: firstly, any old suit does not make the perfect suit, and secondly, there is simply no awareness of the “gentlemanly” look. As previously mentioned, suits are nothing new. Yet looking around the streets of the world, it is hard not to feel sad. Men hardly wear suits any more, and those who do are mostly obliged to for work. Their suits don’t fit properly at the front or at the back, and are merely “work clothes” rather than an eye-catching fashion statement.
“BEING A TRUE GENTLEMAN NEVER GOES OUT OF STYLE.”
The basic requirements for the perfect suit
The most important prerequisite for a suit is that you should feel comfortable in it, not like you’re “dressing up”. There is nothing cooler than the self-confidence radiating from a man wearing the perfect suit. And conversely, there is nothing more artificial than a man who looks like his mum has dressed him up in a suit for his confirmation. There are actually suits that look great without making you feel like you’re stuck inside a strange skin.
I have to admit, the title may be a bit misleading. It is almost impossible to leave a shop with the perfect suit, whether you’re in H&M or Prada. Off-the-peg suits never fit perfectly everywhere. That would be impossible, after all, as we are all very different!
There are basically two ways to find the perfect suit. Firstly, you can get out your wallet and pay for a tailored suit. It will definitely fit, and you can also choose the material and the shape. The disadvantage: the price! The second option is to buy the best off-the-peg suit you can find and have it adjusted by a tailor. For the second option, it is important to find a professional who can mark out the necessary changes!
So what does the perfect suit look like?
Of course, there is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question. Your own taste is a crucial as your height and build. And of course if you want to look fashionable, you have to take trends into account too.
What about the colour?
Here the sky is pretty much the limit, both in terms of colour and pattern. However, if you don’t own a lot of suits, it may be an idea to start your wardrobe with a simple, plain style in navy or dark grey. A suit like this will be suitable for almost every occasion, and is also great for combining with other garments such as jeans. If you already have a plain grey or navy suit, then why not try a patterned grey suit, or a suit in blue, grey or brown tweed or wool. These look beautiful, especially in winter. In summer, beige suits are also an option. What about a black suit? You only really need a black suit for funerals and FBI missions. A black smoking jacket is a better idea.
When choosing the shape, you should bear a couple of things in mind: your own physique and current trends, and the occasions to which the suit is to be worn. If you are buying a suit for a job at a bank, you should stick to a fairly classic style. If you’re buying it just to wear, however, then you can pay more attention to trends. In other words: more extreme proportions, narrower, shorter sleeves, and very slim-cut trousers all become options.
In terms of your own physique, there are of course certain tricks for achieving the best results when buying a suit.
What will you wear with it?
Suits are great, but they are brought to life by what you combine them with. If you take a look at the street-style looks of the world’s fashion icons, you will see that the best outfits are brought to life by the details.
As a rule, suits are normally worn with shirts. Plain or brightly patterned, simple or elaborate: your own taste and the occasion are crucial here, as is what works and what doesn’t. The shirt has to look neat and sit well, and it has to be ironed. The sleeves of the shirt should be about a finger’s width longer than the sleeves of your suit. Short-sleeved shirts do not go with suits, period.
As an alternative to a shirt, in summer you can combine your suit with a plain, round-neck T-shirt, while in winter you can wear a turtleneck sweater.
Ties, whether silk, woollen or knitted, are not a “must”. A relaxed dinner with friends, of course, does not require a tie. But the same goes for ties as for suits: most of the time you should simply wear one. People will appreciate it. When buying shirts, make sure that you can close the collar easily – then the tie won’t feel like a noose.
If you are really confident in your own style, you don’t need a black tie event to jazz up your suit with a bow tie. Go for a 1930s Gatsby style, or a modern bird-of-paradise look.
If you want to add the final touch to your look, try a pocket handkerchief. This can be in contrast to the rest of your look, for example to add a splash of colour to an otherwise plain outfit.
Suits are classically combined with elegant lace-up shoes in either Derby or Budapest style. For a more casual look, choose leather loafers than can be worn with or without socks. For an even less formal look, sneakers are a legitimate choice.
“DRESS HOW YOU WANT TO BE ADDRESSED.”
The big entrance in your perfect suit? It’s not so hard! Simply trust in yourself. To really complete the look, you need to radiate self-confidence. Walk tall, casually button and unbutton your jacket at the right moment. Act like a gentleman so you don’t just look the part, and you’re ready to conquer the world!
Here are our TIMEHOUSE tips for finding the perfect suit:
• Hirmer Munich, Kaufingerstrasse 28, 80331 Munich
• Kuhn Maßkonfektion, Karlsplatz 4, 80335 Munich
• Dolzer, Wilheilm-Wagenfeld-Strasse 18, 80807 Munich
• Boggi, Theatinerstrasse 8, 80333 Munich
• SuitSupply, Brienner Str. 5, 80333 Munich